It is time to end the paranoia over cultural appropriation, because it is killing fashion. There is a difference between cynically exploiting the creative output or customs of a population for easy financial gain, and genuine reverence for— and amplification of— an aesthetic idea. I would argue that the latter accounts for the majority of cases that come under fire today.
Many people in fashion are aware of Jean Paul Gaultier’s notorious 1993 “Chic Rabbis” show, which took inspiration from Orthodox Jewish clothing. One of the most gifted designers of the past century, Gaultier has never been modest or politically correct: he was also responsible for Madonna’s cone bra. But it is difficult to imagine such a show happening in fashion now, regardless of the tradition it is inspired by. For those who haven’t seen it, it is worth taking a moment to revel in the absolute beauty of this collection:
I remember seeing Hasidic men in New York for the first time, and marveling at the elegance of their style. The sharp angles and formality of their dress was a reprieve from the shlubby cargo shorts and flip flops of other people in the neighborhood. I felt close to them somehow, as someone from a religious background (though nowhere near as strict as theirs), and as people of faith who did not care about conforming to the world. I admired them. If I am being honest, I even thought there was something vaguely sexy about that look. One can see this eroticism in the Gaultier show, as each model unbuttons their jacket while walking down the runway.
I’m not alone, of course, in recognizing the subversive sexuality in much religious garb. Or the sensual environment of an incense-filled church. Is it offensive seeing this element reflected in fashion? Not at all.
Am I offended by appropriations of my own ancestry? It’s been common over the past few years to see young creatives and skater types wearing the uniforms of the working class, including overalls and collared shirts with nametags. Carhartt is everywhere. So is a brand called Peel’s, which was inspired by the founder’s painter father, but is worn by plenty of wealthy people.
My grandpa was a car mechanic. He was a redneck, and he lived in rural upstate New York. He had a rifle hanging over his kitchen table, and he once instructed me to never place any other book on top of the Holy Bible. Do I think it’s kind of stupid when I see hipster kids on the Lower East Side in the clothes of the working class everyone claims to care so much about? Yeah, I do. Do I also think it looks cool? Yes. Do I think they shouldn't be allowed to do it? Absolutely not.
We need to stop it with this nonsense. Enough with the mentality that only people from the correct origin can wear a certain style, publish about their own food, or create characters in novels and plays. Let’s go out and buy something from another culture that inspires us. Cook something from a cuisine that’s different from ours, and share it. Write fiction from the point of view of someone not of our demographic, our race, our gender. Sometimes we fuck it up. Or it’s lame. But this is also how we love each other.